Moto Trip Day 16 Home Again

August 21, 2014 by DAVID WILLETT in 2014 Moto Trip

Rocky Mountain National Park - Trail Ridge Road at nearly 12,000 ft

The road home.....

Was going to stay out one more night, but the forecast was for rain, my stove broke, so no more hot meals, my front headlight bulb went out, so I rode the 7 hours, (through Rocky Mountain National Park) back home.

My 2014 Moto Trip covered 2,100 miles and 7 National Parks over 16 days, about half the mileage of last year's trip. Maybe next year I will get to British Columbia (as originally planned for this year, but cancelled due to forest fires in B.C., Oregon and Washington).

Moto Trip Day 15 Salida and the Arkansas River

Leadville Leadville

August 20, 2014 by DAVID WILLETT in 2014 Moto Trip

Leaving Crested Butte..

Rained all night and raining now as I eat my breakfast. I'm sure glad that I rented a room in CB (as the locals refer to Crested Butte). All the Pro Challenge folks have cleared out - racers, TV producers, race officials, etc and the hubbub has moved to Salida for today. Hope I can still get a campsite!

The sun came out and I encounter a State Highway Patrol roadblock on Hwy 50 to Salida. Sign says the road is closed until 6pm for the USA Pro Challenge race, but amazingly they let me through. I'm guessing they thought I was a race Marshall - they ride a BMW 1200 GS, just like mine, they wear a full black riding suit, just like mine, and they wear a bright yellow vest, nearly like mine (except theirs days "Marshall", while mine says "Triumph"). Everyone was waving to me as I rode by! Good news: I was THE only vehicle on the highway for nearly 50 miles, except for race organizing trucks. Bad news: spectator bikes thought they could ride in the center of the lane, cross the road without looking, etc all the way up the twisty road with blind corners over Monarch Pass.

Salida for lunch. Traffic is a mess, waiting for the race to pass through the downtown.

Oh No, The Bike Race Runs Through Salida Too!

Just got out, heading for the Hecla Junction campground on the Arkansas River. No need to be worried about finding a campsite - Hecla Junction was nearly empty. I did forget about the road in to the campground. Hairpin turns, loose gravel - but I made it OK. My campsite - #8, same as my spring fishing trip, and on the River....

Campsite #8, Hecla Junction State Park, North of Salida, on the Arkansas River

The Arkansas River in Brown's Canyon, just below my campsite.

Me, a Cute Cabin and My Yellow-Bellied Marmot Friend

Moto Trip Day 14 Crested Butte & Gothic Ride

Crested Butte Crested Butte

August 19, 2014 by DAVID WILLETT in 2014 Moto Trip

It rained all night, with temps in the 40's, so I feel somewhat justified in taking a room in town.

I have long wanted to take the dirt road between Paonia and Crested Butte which goes up over Kebler Pass and planned to do so today, however at breakfast I learned that the Pro Challenge bike race will also go over the pass (on dirt?) so the road is closed for the day. My friendly innkeeper, Rosemary provided three alternates all of which I will try: Gothic, Brush Creek and Slate Creek dirt roads, up into the mountain canyons.

Gothic: Marmot & Bee Research and a Registered Cricket Club

All were beautiful, but Gothic was the most scenic: high peaks and a abandoned mining town (Gothic), now used as a biological research station, studying bees, marmots and ecology. They even have a registered cricket team in town....

Gothic Visitor's Center, Made of Turn-of-The-Century Logs

Brush Creek Rd had more of a high-mountain ranch country feel....

Back in town at 2pm (pouring rain) before they close the roads for the bike race, I changed clothes, grabbed my raingear and headed into town to watch the race.

USA Pro Challenge (US version of Tour de France, all the pros from around the world are here, riding in the rain.  Wet, wet, wet. Some Pro Challenge riders wiped out on the dirt of Kebler Pass. — USA Pro Challenge (US version of Tour de France, all the pros from around the world are here, riding in the rain. Wet, wet, wet. Some Pro Challenge riders wiped out on the dirt of Kebler Pass.

Then, the sun came out. Dinner at Teocalli Tamale, a locals favorite. The owner and staff were super nice, and the food was sooooo good, and for a reasonable price!

Moto Trip Day 13 to Crested Butte

Crested Butte Crested Butte

August 18, 2014 by DAVID WILLETT in 2014 Moto Trip

Riding Into Crested Butte

Short ride from the Black Canyon to Crested Butte (elevation 8,908), a cute, outdoor sport-oriented Colorado town which I have never visited until now.

Cute, not really busy (although the USA Pro Challenge cycle race comes through here tomorrow morning. Big storms are also predicted for tonight and tomorrow, so I opted for an inexpensive B&B vs another night in a wet tent. The few B&B's were all booked up, but I managed to find a room at the Cristiana Guesthaus - small rooms, but very clean, friendly and centrally located.

The Cristiana B&B, Owned by Martin & Rosemary

Sushi!! - Happy Hour at Lilly's Sushi Bar and Grill on Elk Ave.  After Nights of Noodles, Cravin' Sushi — Sushi!! - Happy Hour at Lilly's Sushi Bar and Grill on Elk Ave. After Nights of Noodles, Cravin' Sushi

Street fair, including a bull ride for kids, welcoming the USA Pro Challenge bike racers..

Kids Having a Ball!

Sierra Nevaday bull ride, moderated for kids....

Moto Trip Day 12 Black Canyon of the Gunnison

Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park

August 17, 2014 by DAVID WILLETT in 2014 Moto Trip

The Black Canyon of the Gunnison is unique among North American Canyons having similar spectacular geological features (and is my favorite). It combines depth, narrowness, steepness and precipitous elevation drop that differentiates it from Yosemite (wider, glacier gouged, flatter) and Grand Canyon (wider, softer rock, flatter).

In the cool of the morning, I took a number of short hikes, then rode the scenic South Rim Drive for gorgeous (no pun intended) views of the canyon. As you progress along, the canyon views open up.....

Hiking companions from Toronto on the Warner Trail

At the end of the scenic drive, the Warner trail (1.5 miles r/t) offers scenic valley views, a self guided nature walk and the only strong cell service in the park. I hiked back with a nice couple from Toronto, and had a pleasant time with my campground neighbors from Boston.

My super nice camp neighbors, Tracy and Mike from Boston

Moto Trip Day 11 to the Black Canyon of the Gunnison

Molas Pass

August 16, 2014 by DAVID WILLETT in 2014 Moto Trip

Sunny morning, white puffy clouds, cool temps, perfect for a bike ride.

After breakfast with Marcy, I headed north on Hwy 550 toward Silverton, Ouray, Montrose and finally Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park (8,300 ft). On the way I ride over three major passes: Coal Bank, Molas (10,910 ft) and Red Mountain, the last two having majestic views. The twisty, winding road with lots of hairpin switchbacks is really fun on a motorcycle.

I arrived at the campground around 4pm, set up my tent, made supper and turned in, planning a couple hikes in the cool of the morning, then the scenic south rim ride with great views of the steep canyon.

Very lovely campsites at the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park

Moto Trip Day 10 Durango

Durango, CO

August 15, 2014 by DAVID WILLETT in 2014 Moto Trip

Breakfast with Marcy, walking around Durango, shopping for supplies, then dinner and house site tour with Marcy, Steve and Dora Lee

Moto Trip Day 9 to Durango

August 14, 2014 by DAVID WILLETT in 2014 Moto Trip

Wet Outside, Dry Inside

Constant rain, stopping around 6am, everything pretty wet or at least damp. Breakfast of oatmeal, tea and leftover Fruita peach pie - Yum!

Grey skies until Blanding, Utah, then the sun came out and I got cell phone service after 4 days without.

From there to Durango, it was in and out of storms constantly. One minute 85 degrees and sunny, then 55 degrees and hard rain. However, the ride into Durango was pretty and college friend Marcy Pryor graciously allowed me to stay at her house for two nights to dry out, rest up and get clean. Very interesting when the primary pleasures in life come down to a hot shower and a cold beer!!

Moto Trip Day 8 Natural Bridges National Monument

August 13, 2014 by DAVID WILLETT in 2014 Moto Trip

Light rain all evening. Still sprinkling when I woke at 7:30, so I made a sumptuous breakfast in my tent (a Cliff Bar and water) packed up everything inside, and proceeded to take down my soggy tent. Hopefully on the ride to Natural Bridges campground the skies will clear. Hate setting up camp in the rain. I don't expect any cell or internet service until tomorrow when I reach Cortez, but I have been logging my pics as I go.

Rain all day. The locals say this is very unusual. Temps around 65, 25-30 degrees cooler than the norm also, but my waterproof riding suit and the cooler temps make for a pleasant day.

The rain stops as I enter Natural Bridges National Monument. Thankfully, I can have a bit of lunch while I dry out my tent & sleeping bag before taking the scenic drive around the park.

A small park, with more European than American visitors, Natural Bridges has a very lovely campground, short, scenic, hikes to the sandstone bridges, and few people. I will definitely love to return.

Again the rain starts as I take the scenic drive around the canyon rim. 3 beautiful arches are showcased. I eat dinner in the rain.

Moto Trip Day 7 Capitol Reef

August 12, 2014 by DAVID WILLETT in 2014 Moto Trip

Breakfast with my German neighbors, then hide in the tent for an hour while the rain beats down.... Then a ride along the Noton Rd.

Finally, the sun came out and I headed for the backcountry Noton Road - paved for a few miles, then turning to dirt. Panoramic, stark views. A short hike to see a nice set of Anasazi, petroglyphs, then took the 10 mile scenic drive to Capitol Gorge where the Mormons blasted a road through the reef for easier travel. This was the only road through the reef until 1962.

Capitol Reef Scenic Drive - canyon narrows

Time for dinner. Halfway through my prep when the heavens REALLY open up and I scramble for my tent to avoid a good soaking.

30 minutes later the skies clear and I resume dinner, although the occasional cracks of thunder still roll through the canyon.

Moto Trip Day 6 Capitol Reef

August 11, 2014 by DAVID WILLETT in 2014 Moto Trip

Riding from Bryce to Capitol Reef the scenery was stark and the day was hot (92 degrees). I was ok as long as I kept moving and had airflow, but stopping for any reason caused extreme discomfort, encased as I am in my rainproof riding suit. See my road way below?

A pretty side trip involved taking the Burr Trail (an old partially paved, driving-cattle-to-market route) south from Boulder 17 miles up and back along a cool sandstone river canyon (the shade was really welcome. No phone or internet since Bryce Canyon, and won't likely be until Near Durango.

the Burr Trail - Winding through the steep-walled canyon

Arriving in Fruita Campground, (Capitol Reef NP), I set up camp, met my German neighbors Martin, Maria, Anna, & Tobias, then set off on foot for the historic Gifford house where the park sells delicious homemade fruit pies and fresh fruit (currently peaches) from the many historic orchard trees managed by the park. Yum!! I got strawberry-rhubarb. Double yum!

An unexpected surprise: a woodwind quintet from the Utah Symphony Orchestra would perform for an hour at the campground amphitheater! My German neighbors and I headed for the performance and were not disappointed.

Woodwind Quintet from the Utah Symphony Orchestra Serenades Us

Moto Trip Day 5 Bryce Canyon

Bryce Canyon

August 10, 2014 by DAVID WILLETT in 2014 Moto Trip

Bryce is so lovely, even in spite of the flocks of tourists. Hearing lots of French and German.

I spent the evening with a lovely Dutch family camped near me: Wynerd, Minnie and Jantine Sonnenberg. We drank wine, told stories and discussed world politics until late.

Moto Trip Day 4 Bryce Canyon

Bryce Canyon

August 10, 2014 by DAVID WILLETT in 2014 Moto Trip

Riding today on Hwy 89 and 12 through rural Utah. Pretty, well kept farms and towns. Surprisingly, there were many wildflowers still in bloom.

Moto Trip Day 3 Northern Utah

Pallisades State Park

August 08, 2014 by DAVID WILLETT in 2014 Moto Trip

Beautiful ride through northern Utah. Pretty canyon rides, 4 mountain passes and not too much traffic on my way spend the night at Palisades State Park near Sterling Utah.

My poor campsite at Pallisades State Park

Probably the worst campsite I ever had to pay for. $20 gets me a small patch of grass surrounded by concrete, next to a large group with unattended continuously crying toddlers and in front of the boat ramp. But tomorrow on to Bryce Canyon!!

Moto Trip Day 2 Harper's Corner, Dinosaur National Monument

Dinosaur National Monument

August 07, 2014 by DAVID WILLETT in 2014 Moto Trip

Clear and sunny Utah morning. Probably be hot, so I'll plan on a swim in the Green River when I return home.

From my base on the Green River, I rode the 33 mile, "out-and-back" Harper's Corner Rd along a high ridge in Dinosaur NP. Surprisingly cool temps in the high 60's and fantastic views made for an enjoyable day.

Lots of Sinclair gas stations, so lots of green dinos. Very appropriate, don't you think

Back from Harper's Corner, the skies opened for 15 minutes dropping pea size hail and buckets of water. After I passed under the storm cloud, the sun came out, temps climbed back up and made my dip in the Green River comfortable. Skinny dipping is frowned upon in Utah, but no one was around so I got my bath in perfect solitude. Then the clouds rolled out and all was calm.

Moto Trip - Day 1 to Dinosaur National Monument

Poudre River Canyon

August 06, 2014 by DAVID WILLETT in 2014 Moto Trip

A beautiful Colorado morning for a ride. Up the Poudre Canyon, over Cameron Pass, over Rabbit Ears Pass, through Steamboat Springs with temps in the 60's and 70's.

Past my favorite ranch gate near Dinosaur National Park, and temps soared to the high 80's.

Great to find my campsite on the Green River, strip off my riding gear and enjoy the cool night air.

Look at all that gear: food for 2 weeks, tent, sleeping bag, bike tools and oil, clothing, where’s it going to go?

2014 Moto Trip Prep

August 05, 2014 by DAVID WILLETT in 2014 Moto Trip

All got packed on the bike, with even a little room to spare!

Tomorrow I leave on a loop trip through Utah (Bryce, Grand Staircase, Bridges) and Colorado (Durango, Black Canyon, Crested Butte, Salida and Rocky Mountain National Parks)